1. Set up a mini obstacle course in your house and show your dog around it with treats the first time to teach him the course.
2. Run your dog up and down the stairs, this forces them to use different muscles than running on flat surfaces.
3. Use Bullwrinkles Tenderchips to train your dog to run on the treadmill.
4. Throw a ball in short distances but high up, to encourage your dog to focus and catch.
5. Play tug of war with your pup's favorite toy.
6. Make your pup work for small treats, ask him to pull out all of his tricks (in exchange for a tiny reward).
Tips From A Pro: Jessica Moll- Registered Vet Technician
There are a lot of different reasons why people want to crate train their puppies or dogs. Despite the “can’t teach an old dog new tricks” mentality, you can train dogs at any age, especially if you make it a positive and inviting experience. The key is to get your dog to see their crate as a safe space to escape to - much the same way your bed is your place to relax and escape. It is imperative that the crate is NOT used for ANYTHING else. Too many people shove their noisy or whining pup in their crates where they cry as they’re ignored. If you start to use it for punishment, this pretty much guarantees a stressful, frustrating exercise for both trainer and trainee. Below are steps that can ensure positive results.
Place the crate in an area that your dog spends a lot of time in - if you treat it like another piece of furniture, your dog will grow accustomed to it and therefore alleviate distrust and suspicion. Leave the crate door open, fill it with a cozy blanket, a couple toys and treats - I suggest Bullwrinkles Liver Lovers. Let your dog approach it on their own without influence - do not try coaxing them into it. You’re trying to teach that it is their choice: their space. Some dogs will willingly go inside and sniff around, others need that push with additional treats. For the dog who need an extra push, place a few more Liver Lovers in front and around the crate. Keep up this process until your dog feels comfortable going inside. This doesn't always happen overnight, but it is very important to be patient and let them do it on their own.
The Power of Persuasion
After your pup gathers the courage to go in and out of it a couple of times, the next step is to get them comfortable with staying in it for longer periods of time. This can be accomplished by using food to create a positive association with the crate. As pretty much all dogs LOVE meal time, you can start by putting each bowl of food at the back of the crate. Again, just place it back there and let your dog explore - DON’T try to encourage them. If you started with a pup who was hesitant or slightly spooked about going to the back of the crate when it was first introduced, start by placing the food closer to the front of the crate, gradually moving the bowl further back as the days progress.
Closing The Crate
Once your dog is comfortable eating at the back of the crate without stress or nervousness, it’s time for them to adapt to closing the crate. Continue doing this each time, gradually leave your pup in the crate a couple of additional minutes after each meal as over the course of the next few days.
If your pup is whining and putting up a fight, slowly open the door and do not leave him as long the next time. If he starts complaining at the previously allotted time, let him whine, wait until he stops and then open the crate. This way you are not teaching him that whining makes the crate open.
Longer Crated Periods
Once you have mastered the steps above and your pup is spending more time in the crate stress-free, it is time to try getting out of sight when they are crated. Use a Liver Lover or favourite toy to encourage them to get into the crate and close it. Sit beside the crate for a few minutes and then venture off to another room in the house where you can not be spotted by your dog. Return to the crate and sit beside it again for a few minutes before opening. Once your pup has reached the hour mark of being in the crate without seeing you, they are ready to be left for short periods of time or overnight.
Coming and Going
There a couple more factors in the success of long-term crate training. The first is to remember to avoid excitement. Encouragement and praise can be used when asking them to go in, but don’t overdo it. When you get home and they are super excited to see you, ignore them for the first minute while you put your stuff down and take your coat off, then proceed to the crate.
Crate training can be a slow process, but a very successful one if completed with patience from start to finish. Ensure that your crate is large enough for your pup to stand up, sit down and completely turn around in. Also, ensure you use a highly palatable (extremely stinky and tasty) treat to train with, you want to keep them focused and happy about the process. This is why I recommend Bullwrinkles Lover Lovers.
A great blog post from James WellBeloved about how to choose a dog.
TOP 4 EASTER HAZARDS FOR DOGS
If ingested can cause stomach upset, pancreatic upset (sometimes very severe), tremors, hyperactivity, increased heart rate & seizures from the caffeine and sugar. The darker the chocolate, the more toxic it is.
Tip: If you are having an Easter Egg Hunt, take note of how many eggs you hide, how many are found and keep your dog away from these areas until the egg hunt is completed.
Xylitol is a very common ingredient used to artificially sweeten candy and gum. It is known as "sugar alcohol" because if ingested at a toxic dose, it can be deadly to pets. It can cause vomiting, weakness, muscle tremors, coma, seizures and liver failure.
Tip: If you plan on serving Easter treats or hiding them around the house, ensure that they are kept in a place far away from your pets. Do not leave a dessert table unattended.
PLASTIC GRASS (EASTER DECOR)
As we know, just like people, pets can't absorb plastic. If and when consumed, the plastic grass can get stuck and wrapped up in the intestines, causing a blockage. Vomiting, diarrhea, stomach pain and weakness occurs when dog experience a blockage, most times this results in the surgical removals of the object that is causing the block.
Tip: If you decide to decorate your house for Easter, be sure that every item used to decorate it placed out of your dog's reach.
Easter is a time for Lilies and blooming bulbs. Although many plants can be harmful to pets, Lilies are particularly harmful to cats, exposure to these plants can cause serious kidney and intestinal problems.
Tip: If you plan on buying Easter plants, ensure that they are well out of reach. If you are trying to grow these plants in your Garden, be sure it is in an area that your pets can not get to.
1. Be the pack leader - always walk in front of your dog to show them who is the leader of the pack. This should be practiced from the start to finish of your walk.
2. Use the right leash - keeping your dog on a shorter leash helps to ensure that you are in control. It is ok to let your dog wander sometimes but ultimately, you should be the one who leads the way.
3. Reward your dog during the walk - after your pup has proven to follow your lead, give him/her a minute to sniff around and explore.
4. Make sure your walk is long enough - the amount of time a dog needs to exercise is variable depending on size and energy level. That being said, make sure you set aside enough time to satisfy their needs.
5. Channel your energy - try to stay focused on the task, pay attention to what is around you on your walk, stay calm and positive so that your dog trusts your energy as a guide.
6. The right walking tools - if your dog pulls a lot, consider a proper walking harness so that you are not pulling on their neck. Typically walking harness' work in the owners favor as they tend to give you more control.
How To Properly Approach & Pet A Dog
A Proper Greeting:
Invite the pup to make the initial contact with you by bending down and lowering yourself to their level. If the dog is very fearful, bend down the same way but do not face the dog and wait for the dog to come and brush up against you. NEVER hover over a dog or make direct eye contact at the initial meeting, this is perceived as a threat.
A Proper Pet:
If you are dealing with a friendly dog, they will approach you with a relaxed tail and ears. If you are dealing with a nervous or fearful dog, they will likely back again or act jumpy. Once the dog has a relaxed body posture, eyes, and mouth, or makes brief and subtle eye contact, go in for the pet. A dog who enjoys petting, will typically lean in for more.
Where To Pet:
Dogs are typically comfortable being pet on their chest, tail, under the chin, base of the neck and shoulders. Initiate this movement from the side, raising your hand over their head can be threatening even to the most submissive dog. Another smart option is to ask the owner where their favorite spot is. Gentle massages and light scratches are calming. When you practice, gentle and calm petting, the likelihood is they will lean in for more!
*Remember to resist the urge to pet a dog if you are nervous, dogs are AMAZING at sensing our feelings and emotions, if you are unsure, they will be too*
Source (Image): King Of Paws
What you will need:-Lots of your dogs FAVOURITE treats
*If you noticed ALOT of debris or any blood, stop what you are doing and call your Veterinarian, it is likely that your dog has an infection and should be cleaned and treated by a professional*